I’m still alive, unlike the two dogs…
So the conclusion to four weeks of traveling through Guatemala and Honduras is a vacation home paradise right outside of Uberlandia, Brazil. For the last month, I have been jumping from one place to the next, staying no longer than two nights in a single town. I wish that I had been keeping up with this blog sight a little better, because now the task of recapping the whole thing and displaying it all properly with the images seems a bit daunting. But here we go, from the beginning.

I left Quetzaltenango and first spent two days in Antigua. A nice town, usually one of a tourists´ favorite, with it’s classical churches, colorful houses and nice central park. Although, like I said, a tourist’s favorite, therefore you find what you’d expect from a tourism town- cheap thrills, hotel staff who don’t speak Spanish and a bombardment of over priced souvenirs. As soon as we got off the chicken bus, we were practically attacked by a man, wearing no badge or nametag, or company identification of any sort, who insisted that he knew of all the best tours in the town. Said that he was a volunteer working for the city, then proceeded to take us to his friend’s Tour Company. The tour company was located in the corner of the bus station in a red 1990 model Honda civic. The driver, or tour guide, was asleep in the front seat, and the ´city volunteer´ knocked twice on the window to wake him up. An overweight Guatemalan gets out of the car, slicks back his hair while tucking his short in over his belly and starts to explain his tours. It wasn’t long before Scott just walked off. I was a bit more polite, but, needless to say, the guy didn’t sell us the tour.
The following day we took a trip to Pacaya. This is the most active volcano in Guatemala, there’s actually real lava flowing down the sides. We had a prepubescent guide who stopped to explain every variety of plant along the trail. Another tour group passed us, their guide not so interested in the nature. He was older and had a two-foot long gun in his hand. Near the summit, you can climb on the lava rock and get right up next to flowing lava. It’s not quite flowing like you’d expect from the movies. It’s more like there’s hot, glowing lava rock under a layer of cooler black lava rock and the movement of the semi-liquid stone pushes the top level of lava rock forward slowly. As you would expect it’s really hot next to the lava, the soles of the tennis shoes melt and we were able to roast marshmallows. True, we roasted marshmallows over lava, and then proceeded to eat them. It wasn’t until someone mentioned that the gases are toxic and we probably shouldn’t be eating those marshmallows that I thought, hmm, wonder if this information is included in the guidebook or is this common knowledge. I don’t travel with a guidebook, and usually don’t read about a place until after I’ve visited it. So later when I was reading the guidebook I found out that the path is awfully dangerous, there’s been a lot of robbing in the past and fairly recently, hence the two foot gun. The guidebook also said, ´because of this, it’s important to go with a guide, even though usually you wonder how this 13-year-old Guatemalan farmer is going to protect you. ´ It didn’t mention anything about toxic marshmallows, although it did say that a flashlight is necessary. Which it was, and I didn’t bring. After reaching the summit, we stayed until after the sun went down. At this point the entire sky turned pink from the reflection of the lava. Then we had to walk down this mountain in complete darkness. It was fine without a flashlight since I was completely ignorant of the potential danger. I was just trying not to sprang an ankle.

Our next stop was Copan; a little town bordering Honduras and Guatemala known for the nearby Mayan ruins. The ruins are famous for the writings, which since Scott insisted on not paying for a tour, remain a mystery to me. If you ever get the opportunity to see the Copan ruinas, skip the museum and pay for a guide. The hieroglyphs tell the history and the stories of the people. I wish I could tell you more.

Next I stayed a week in Utila in Honduras learning how to scuba dive (so, okay, I lied, I did stay in one place longer than two days). Scuba diving was incredible, an experience unlike anything I’ve felt or even expected. It’s truly meditative being under the water like that; you are weightless, floating sideways, upside down, maneuvering along huge cliffs of underwater rock and through small crevices trying to avoid touching the sea fans or tubular coral while only hearing the sssssssss of the inhale and the blub blub blub blub from the bubbles of the exhale. I swam with a sea turtle, saw three-foot long barracuda (and their teeth), and was able to take a digital camera under water to capture the images. I did five dives and am certified to go to a distance of 60 feet underwater. My next goal is to convince my dad that we should go scuba diving together in the Mediterranean or something. (I really think that this is your thing dad… what do you think, vacation?)
From Honduras I traveled to Rio Dulce, Las Conchas, Flores and Tikal, Coban and Semuc Champey, Huehuetenango, back to Xela and then to Champerico. Rio Dulce is a little town built on a river. We stayed at a yacht club hotel that a girl on the bus had recommended to us. It was a bit pricier than what we’d been staying in, but for $12 a night, the extra cost was worth being treated like royalty. It was the first time since I’ve been out of the US that I was able to control the temperature of the shower. There was both a hot water faucet and a cold-water faucet, which made up for the cockroaches in my bed. There were also free kayaks that we took advantage of.

Las Conchas is a small community in the middle of nowhere. We had to take a micro-van on a dirt road for 1 hour to reach the turn off for the hotel we were staying at. (A microvan that had the capacity to fit 14, but on this trip had managed to carry 24 people, I think that the Guatemalan style of transportation may have something to do with their small size and evolution). It’s difficult to describe this place that we stayed. It’s not in the guidebooks yet, just known through word of mouth. The guy who owns it is an American guy, who after graduating from CU Boulder rode his bike through central and South America, found this place, bought some farmland, and now runs a semi-organized hotel operation. And is complete nut, not dangerous just a little out there. The lobby area of his place is a huge open-air structure with ten hammocks strung to wooden posts and a palm tree leaf roof. We took an 8-hour hike through the montaƱa, which despite the ankle deep mud, was quite awesome. We trekked through tiny Mayan communities, where the people would go into their houses when they saw us and the kids would stare and laugh at us from the doorways- probably one of their first encounters with white people. We were in the forest, stopped and swam in 100% clear water holes, refilled our water bottles from water in a cave and ended up falling asleep in the hammocks at seven o’clock that night, after a fire cooked dinner of vegetable and beans from the nearby farms.
Tikal was breath taking. You can climb up to the top of these Mayan temples and see over the forest all the way to the horizon in every direction. These temples are in the depths of the forest, so there’s monkeys above you in the trees, mosquitoes and large spiders looming all around you and huge tree trunks and roots surrounded by every tint of green. The tops of the temples are taller than the tallest tree, so at the top you really feel like you’re at the top of the world. Gives you an idea of how the Mayan kings must have felt.
Semuc Champey is a paradise, the kind of place that’d be perfect to close your eyes and transcend to during a time of high stress. There’s a forest covering the mountains, a clear water river flowing through the valley creating swimming holes and waterfalls, and a mirador and the top of the mountain (quite a rewarding view after an hour walk straight uphill in the 90 degree heat). On our trip from here to Huehuetanango we hit and killed two dogs, without even a flinch from the passengers and only an odd enjoyment from the driver, judging from his smile and furrowed brow.
I went back to Xela and then took a trip to the Pacific coast with the students and teachers from my Spanish school. It was a great way to finish the trip. The beach was great; we had a huge house with bunk beds, hammocks, a huge fire grill and a swimming pool. We ghetto rigged a volleyball court with a single string and sticks and played volleyball in the sand. From here I caught a bus to Guatemala City and took off the next morning for Brazil.
And now, I’m really in paradise. I’ll explain my situation here in the next blog, hopefully it comes soon. As always, please don’t hesitate to email me. I love hearing from you and am always curious to know how life at home is. Also, I´ll try to upload more images, but i don´t understand Portugues and am unable to work the photo program on this computer.